Art has been closely intertwined with religion
and royalty in Burman history. Temples, pagodas and palaces
displayed the artistic skills of painters, wood carvers and
sculptures. Temples and pagodas were traditionally built of brick
and many are still standing. The great palaces, however, were made
of wood, and only one badly-deteriorating example of these
beautiful carved structures remains today. Art and architecture,
which relied on royal support, faded when the last royal kingdom
collapsed.
Although court culture has been extinguished, popular street-level
culture is vibrant and thriving. Drama is the mainstay of this
culture, and just about any celebration is a good excuse for a pwe
(show). Performances may recount Buddhist legends, or be more
light-hearted entertainments involving slapstick comedy, dance,
ensemble singing or giant puppets. Burman music is an integral
part of a pwe; it originates from Siam and emphasises rhythm and
melody. Instruments are predominantly percussive and include
drums, boat-shaped harps, gongs and bamboo flutes.
Over 85% of the Burman population is Theravada Buddhist, although
it is not the official state religion and since the Ne Win
government takeover, it has actually officially occupied a less
central role in Burman life. In the Rakhine region, towards
Bangladesh, there are many Muslims. Christian missionaries have
had some success among hill tribes but many remain staunch
animists.
Burmese is the predominant language and has its own alphabet and
script. Though you're hardly going to have time to master the
alphabet, it may be worth learning the numerals, if only so you
can read the bus numbers. English is spoken by a few Burmans,
particularly by the older generation.
It's easier to buy authentic Burman dishes from food stalls rather
than restaurants. Chinese and Indian eateries predominate, and
hotel restaurants tend to remove much of the chilli and shrimp
paste from their Burman dishes. Rice is the core of any Burman
meal. To this is added a number of curry options and a spicy raw
vegetable salad, and almost everything is flavoured with ngapi - a
dried and fermented shrimp paste. Chinese tea is generally
preferable to the over-strong, over-sweet and over-milky Burman
tea. Sugar-cane juice is a very popular streetside drink, and
stronger tipples include orange brandy, lychee wine and the
alarming-sounding white liquor and jungle liquor.
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